TheGipper

What's the stock situation / how do the shelves look at La Casa del Habano Mamungkukumpurangkuntjunya?

Not only is it nothing to worry about, it's something to get excited about. Any time I see this in a B&M shop, I am definitely buying the box.

I like this kind of grading scale.

The amount of vapid, inane, Freshman-level-essay nonsense is getting out of hand.

It's a fairly simple technology, no need to spend a lot. Features you'll want to look for: Must have a manual seal button (most have this). At least 12 inch (30cm) opening, so it can accommodate the 11-11.5 inch (28-29cm) wide bag rolls. Those size rolls will fit most Habanos boxes. Only the largest cabs, like 50 count double corona won't fit in that size. Built-in cutter is nice, but not necessary.

So let me try to advance this topic with a visual example of why I'm dismissive of these experiments or tests that (in my opinion) we may misinterpret as showing high degree of permeability of water vapor or just air through these vacuum seal bags. Below is one of my Boveda-in-the-bag experiments that I still have going. Photo taken just a few minutes ago. I chose this box just because it happened to be near the top of one of my long term aging Rubberdors. A HDM Palmas Extra box. POU DIC 12 box code. Purchased February 2014. Vacuum sealed about 6 months after that. So it has been in vacuum seal for nearly 10 years. Note the bag is tight against the box. There is no slack. I can feel through the bag that the Boveda is still soft. And this is even using my less-preferred FoodSaver manufactured bag. That bag is as tight today as the moment I hit the seal button on the sealer 10 years ago. The tighness/lack of slack of this box is typical for all my long term aging boxes. In fact, once I vacuum seal a box, I try to remember to check the bag for increased slack after a few weeks/months. If they are loose it is because the seal line is imperfect - usually this is due to a small wrinkle in the seal edge. And so sometimes you get a bad seal and it becomes necessary to re-seal the box. But boxes with a good seal stay like this. For years, for decades. This is why I conclude there is close to zero H2O vapor exchange. If smaller air molecules like N2 or O2 are not getting through the bag (which I think we can conclude given the bag is still tight after 10 years), then larger H2O molecules are not getting through either.

I've been running something better than "tests" for 20 years. I have reported back, often, in various threads here and elsewhere, that I get good results. Without fail, many people in these threads then proceed to tell me why I'm wrong, and are quite insistent about it. I get tired of it, so all I can do is shrug and say, "okay, whatever".

Doubtful, unless you're using really bad bags. And yes, the FoodSaver bags aren't the best ones, but they don't exchange water vapor at the rate you are suggesting. I think your experiment is not correctly designed. You are measuring different pressures and thinking RH is a correct, static measure of water vapor. I don't think it is. I don't wish to get into yet another internet argument with someone who hasn't been vacuum sealing at all or as long as I have, where they tell me my results over 20 years aren't possible. So that's all I will say in this thread.

I think the way to think about this is: sheen is oil, not so much water content of the cigar. No Boveda is going to put oil back into the cigar. But you can try it. I don't think you'll do any harm including a Boveda in the cab. But I think if the sticks are currently properly humidified, they're just going to look dull forever, which is fine. I've had plenty of boxes that the wrapper leaf looks utterly pathetic but smoke well anyway.

Firstly, get the cigars to correct condition before vacuum sealing. I experimented long ago with adding a Boveda to a vacuum seal, and they just don't seem to work right in the lower pressure. If your cigars are in the right condition before you seal, the Boveda in the bag will do nothing to help. A good quality vacuum seal bag will lose almost no water vapor over even a 10-20 year period. So start with the cigars in the right condition, and you won't need to worry about active humidification inside the bag. Just store sealed box in a coolerdor or whatever you have. Also, the value in the vacuum seal is the seal, not the vacuum. Draw the excess air from the bag, but hit the seal button before it starts to pull the bag to much lower pressure. Source: I've been vacuum sealing for long term aging for more than 20 years.

Great, I've graduated from arguing about vacuum sealing with people who have never tried it. Now I am arguing about vacuum sealing with AI bots.

What? Why? That would completely defeat the purpose of vacuum sealing.

Hall Monitor syndrome. Even pretended to ask the forum's advice, when in reality it was already decided to proceed. The Hall Monitors were never satisfied with merely monitoring the halls, they always had to tell as many people as possible about the confrontations they had.

Have you considered the possibility that you know absolutely nothing about who that guy is and what his situation is? For all you know, that's the shop owner. Or a guy who did something of great value for the shop owner in the past. Or who knows what else... Just relax, man.

This "artist" has some opinions on the topic...